Wood printing is not something new to the world. It is also known as block printing. With this technique, you can print texts, patterns, or images. This method is widely used in East Asia. Wood printing is said to have originated in China, dating back to 220 AD or even before, where it started for textile printing and later was used to print on papers.
There are many printers available on market, have a look at all in one printers to get this done. One of the best-known wood block prints of Japan is Ukiyo-e. For Ukiyo-e, the artist first draws on Washi, which is a durable and thin paper. Later, in the 15th century, India started producing block-books. In this article, you will find five ways of printing your favorite art or text on wood.
5 Different Ways to Print on Wood
1) Printing on Wood with Acetone
Acetone is used to transfer toner on to the wood. For this process, you need some acetone and a paper towel. For protecting your hands, you need some nitrile gloves. You may also keep a credit card or a key card handy. Note that lacquer thinners act as a substitute for Acetone. Once you have assembled all the tools, you are set to go.
First, lay the mirror image on the wood. The paper should be creased over the edge and make sure to hold it in the correct place. You can also use tape. Dip the paper towel in Acetone or lacquer thinner. Wrap the key card in the paper towel. Go on to press it downward with a firm grip. The toner will be transferred on the wood after making a few passes. The paper will and won’t leave any stickiness. You can see the image printed on the wood. Keep in mind that Acetone is a pretty harsh chemical, and the image quality won’t be anything extraordinary. However, printing on wood with Acetone, the process is quick and clean.
2) Printing on Wood with an Iron used for Clothes
In this process, all you need is a clothes iron and the image printed on a paper. Place the paper on the piece of wood, crease it over the edge. Iron on the paper and keep it moving all over the paper. Press the iron hard and keep the temperature on maximum. However, the heat may not be enough. The results you get may not be satisfactory.
To get the best results under this process, you may use a wax paper or use a soldering iron with a branding tip. One major advantage of this process is that it is cheap and really quick. The disadvantages are the image quality, which is quite underwhelming and you may get burnt or even cause scorch paper or wood.
3) Printing on Wood with Polycrylic
Under this process, you need water-based polyurethane, acid brush, water, and a stiff toothbrush. It differs slightly from the other process. You remove the paper when it is dry. First, brush on the polyacrylic using the acid brush. Avoid any puddling and use a thin film only. Press down the paper on the polyacrylic. Start from the center and move outwards, smoothing the paper. Make sure there are no air bubbles, and the paper sits firmly on the polyacrylic.
Set the whole setup aside for an hour. After an hour, wet the back completely and peel the paper off. To remove the paper completely, use a toothbrush, and scrub gently. To wipe the wood, use a shop towel. With this method, you get an amazing image quality, and the finish is safe as it is water-based. However, removing the paper can be a messy process, plus the whole process is time-consuming.
4) Printing on Wood using a Gel Medium
For this method, you need the following tools-
- Foam Brush
- Key Card
- Toothbrush
- Liquitex gloss
- Water
This method is similar to the one with polyacrylic. The only difference is that Liquitex is a gel, while polyacrylic is a liquid. Press the paper in the gel and get rid of any air bubbles using your fingers. Use the key card as the gel is thick and cannot be easily moved. Set the setup aside for 90 minutes.
One difference worth noting is that the gel was much harder to grab. The gel tends to build up. You can avoid it by mixing the gel with a little water before applicating. You get amazing output, plus the gel is safe to use. The disadvantages include long drying hours, a rough surface being left behind, and the polyacrylic can be hard to remove.
5) Printing on Wood using CNC Laser
This method does not fall under the DIY category. For this method, you need the Full Spectrum Hobby Laser. In case of unavailability, you can work with a different laser engraver, according to you. You can engrave on plastics, wood, and also on leather. This setup is not complicated.
First, you have to place the wood set up in the machine. The positioning dot should be lined up and once you are done, press the print option. The laser slowly starts the path. This process takes only a couple of minutes. The print is sharp. One issue that you may face is that the laser could not replicate the image easily. With this process, you can get a fine detailing. However, this method is expensive and not good for pictures.
Finishing Touch
To see the final results, place the five printed woodblocks side by side. Spray two coats of lacquer, and you may notice slight changes. The changes would be:
- The Acetone printed wood will darken up
- You won’t notice much of a change with the iron print
- The polyacrylic print will look even better as it darkens
- The gel print also darkens, but it has an uneven surface
- With CNC print, you get even better detailing, but the look you get is of burnt wood
Concluding Words
These five methods of wood printing are easy to follow. Most of them being DIY, these are economical, and the tools are easily available. Use these techniques to get the best results.